Guide to Inspecting Baskets
This guide is designed to assist with the general inspection of baskets and highlights a number of areas where special care and attention needs to be taken. In all cases the manufacturers’ latest Maintenance Manual and Inspection Schedule must be used when inspecting them and must be adhered to. Airworthiness Directives and Manufacturers’ Service Bulletins must be checked prior to inspection and the baskets checked to ensure compliance.
There are basically two types of basket, those with a solid floor and those with a wicker floor wicker. Construction of all baskets is basically the same however some use stainless steel frames and there are variations in the design from the open basket through to multiple compartment types.
Most inspectors have a well-established methodical approach to inspecting baskets and at what point during the inspection the basket gets inspected. The order presented here may suit some and not others. As long as all the points are covered it does not really matter but if you have, or are developing, a system then stick with it if it works for you.
At the end of the guide there are a number of pictures which we will add to whenever appropriate. Click on the image for an enlargement. These basically demonstrate why it is important to remove the padding if any damage is suspected or when a heavy landing (especially in the vertical component) is reported.
If you are asked to inspect a basket, or you inspect a basket as part of an annual or periodic inspection, then do just that. Determining whether a basket is airworthy in that it meets the inspection criteria as opposed to whether or not it is repairable are two very different things. If you suspect damage be prepared to remove the hide or padding to investigate further. It does follow that once trim or hide is removed and if nothing is found then before the basket can be released it must be returned to an airworthy condition. If damage is found then obviously it will confirm your suspicions and further verification will need to be sought to ascertain if repairs are feasible or cost effective. This is especially true in cases where widespread woodworm is found (or damage to the frames). In the case of smaller open baskets, secondhand good condition ones are more often cheaper than the cost of replacing canes. In the case of larger commercial baskets the repair costs and downtime may be far less than the building of a new basket.
In the case of distortion, fractures or cracks found in frames it is often the case that once the trim is taken off more damage is found. In some cases it may be more prudent that once damage is discovered you recommend that further inspection to all the other welds (for example) is carried out. You may however simply fail the basket and state that further inspection must be carried out by the manufacturer or specialist repairer. In this case you must state exactly which areas you have inspected.
If you have any doubts or concerns with the baskets’ integrity then refer it to the appropriate manufacturer.
Of all the components baskets are probably the most difficult component to inspect and certainly the most subjective. Apart from a few manufacturers’ criteria for the cables and basket damage the actual inspection is more commonsense than anything else. This isn’t helped by the fact that it is almost impossible to check all the welds or fixings as they are often covered in padding and trim. Fortunately serious damage or wear doesn’t occur unless something dramatic has happened to the darling so it is often pretty clear that something is amiss well ahead of the inspection! Fortunately in the odd instant where a pattern develops in a particular type of basket failure then the manufacturers are quick to get on the case and issue an SB. Baskets are extremely strong and well over engineered so even quite serious damage can often go unnoticed. What this does mean though is that a quick glance around a basket, kick the runners and make sure the hide is on is not really enough!
Types of Basket
Pretty much all baskets involve wicker. The exceptions are airchairs, hoppers, where the basket is replaced by a seat/burner unit and some lightweight baskets. Over the years all sorts of materials have been experimented with but wicker reigns supreme.
There are two basic build-types. We tend to refer to them as wicker-floored and solid-floored. Some baskets have top and bottom frames made from stainless steel and some have stainless uprights joining the frames others may have aluminium hoops woven in.
These baskets are all wicker. Some have top frames and most have hoops, woven in that take, or that the basket wires will follow. The runners and hide are crucial to the overall integrity of these baskets especially the end hide where the wicker floor meets the side.
These baskets have, as the term suggests, solid floors with wicker sides. The majority have top and bottom frames.
(iii) Open baskets
Open baskets are ones that have no internal partitions. The vast majority of the smaller baskets are of this type. Larger open baskets are about but as there are restrictions on numbers that can be carried commercially in open baskets these tend to be limited to 120,000cu.ft. balloons. Open baskets (O) are deemed to have no internal partitions (obvious really!).
(iv) Partitioned baskets
Almost all larger baskets are partitioned to one degree or another. These are referred to by their layout. The first ones had a pilot compartment at one end running across the width of the basket and where called ‘single-T partitioned baskets’, later on the central pilot compartment design came along and that was called the Double-T portioned basket so historically they now tend to be referred to as single-T (T) and double-T (TT). A single-partitioned (P) basket is now understood to have one partition down the length, or across the width, of the basket.
(v) Folding or Lightweight baskets
Generally speaking these are the baskets that are assembled prior to flight and have solid or wicker floor and a pole system that supports a top frame with a fabric wrap forming the sides.
(vi) Airchairs and Hoppers
The vast majority of these are either combined chairs and burner assemblies to which a flight cylinder is attached. The cylinders may be interchangeable or dedicated to the unit. There are a few types which comprise a framework supporting a seat and cylinder(s) with a separate gimballed burner. None involve the use of wicker, technically the pilot is probably the basket(case)!
What you will need
A large stout rubbish bag. Stiff brush, more often than not the bottom of a basket resembles a parrot’s cage, especially if it has a padded floor, so before you can check any of the bottom wicker or lower frame wraps and string then it will need biffering out. Strong disposable gloves for those decaying batteries, bits of fruit or sweets (we have even found used dental floss!). A good torch, its dark down there. Some sort of hooky bar to ease the top trim if you suspect damage to the welds. Long nose pliers to recover coins or diamond earrings trapped in the passenger compartments of wicker floor baskets. It is extremely unusual to find coins in the pilots’ compartment. A selection of decent screwdrivers, flat, Poisidrive and Phillips. A blunt instrument to check woodwormed areas. Bag of assorted cable ties to reattach fire extinguisher or first aid bags etc. First Aid kit containing tweezers for the splinters and plasters for cuts and grazes from broken shrapnel.
Just like all the other aspects of inspecting you need to record the details. Is the cylinder compatible with the basket and balloon? Are the cylinders listed in the logbook the same as the ones that you are about to inspect. Have their weights been recorded in the front of the logbook?
Nifty tip: Don’t copy the part number or serial number out of the logbook but off the basket if it actually has any numbers. If it doesn’t then you will need to see if the basket type matches the logbook details. Which sort of means you might have to copy the details from the logbook!
Many earlier baskets do not have a serial number but were given the same serial number as the envelope. Obviously over the years the envelope and basket got separated and the original maybe lost. Only if you are certain the basket is the original one then you can use the number recorded in the logbook. If you are not certain then it can be given the serial number of the current envelope. Another problem is identifying the type or part number of older baskets. In the case of Thunder&Colt baskets this can be accomplished by measurement and description and a call to Camerons. Alternatively the previous solution is quite acceptable in these cases. Serial and part numbers are either on the pole socket or on a plate in the basket itself. If you have access to an engraver you could always pop the details on a pole socket.
Record the basket details prior to the inspection proper starting. You need to record the basket manufacturer, type or part number and serial number. There may be times when a basket may be presented as ‘stand alone’ or is to be added to the balloon having been recently purchased. There may well be no history and in such cases you may have to create (not to be confused with ‘be creative with’) the paperwork that goes with it. This is also the time to check if there are any SBs or ADs applicable to the basket.
Cue the Inspection
We tend to start by checking the inside and the top first then clamber out and check down the sides, finally tipping the basket, first on one side and then the other, to check the bottom.
First thing to do is biffa out the basket removing the cylinders and anything that isn’t tied, bolted or cable-tied down. You will probably have to have a good sweep round the edges to see the area under the hide. It will usually surprise the owner that the thing gets into the air at all with all the stuff that comes out. Don’t forget the padded floor. Watch out for decaying Wurther Originals, these are the worst! If, as some folk do, a solid board has been screwed to the inside runners on a wicker-floored basket then it has to be unscrewed. This is where a bit of pre-warning prior to the owner arriving may have been prudent! The upside is that there may be items of value hiding under it. We once found a phone battery, GPS (thought to have been lost in a field!) and a prized cap under such a floor. Spreader boards are usually held down with the remains of Velcro and this can be very tenacious. Try pulling at the corners first. A heave in the middle usually succeeds in bringing up the board, Velcro staples and all! Solid floor baskets are simpler to clear out. Try and dissuade the owner from turning the basket upside down and shaking it. This will generally require some work with a screwdriver afterwards to remove grass and soil from the pole sockets and also makes finding valuables more difficult if they fall into the grass.
The equipment required to be carried and what needs checking can be found in the appropriate Manufacturers’ Flight Manual and Maintenance Manual. This varies from manufacturer to manufacturer but as a simple rule if the basic items are fitted check them and if necessary advise the owner accordingly. These, including restraint lines, are safety items and it isn’t that unusual for balloons to take to the air prematurely.
All the manufacturers have a degree of permissible damage when it comes to the floor, weave and cables which can be found in the appropriate manual. We’ll have a brief summary at the end but you must make yourself aware of the criteria by studying the appropriate manual. Having said that all wicker baskets are pretty much the same whether they have a solid or wicker floor or are partitioned or not.
All aboard the flying fish
Prior to boarding step back and have a squint down the sides to see how straight the basket really is. Serious bends or bows can go surprisingly unnoticed from the inside.
Pay particular attention to the pole sockets. Are they leaning in the correct direction?
Clamber into the basket. Get up and get someone to put their weight on the opposite side. Try again!
Instruments are a requirement (if fitted) by some manufacturers and are often forgotten, as in, not brought along!
Check the fire extinguisher if one is fitted! Some remove them from the basket during transport. Is it in date, is it in the green, does it actually have anything in it, can it be removed from its bracket or bag? A non-functioning fire extinguisher serves no useful purpose!
Check the Quick Release. How does the strapping look? Is the stitching intact? Are the carabiners of the required strength and in good working condition? Does it actually work correctly?
(i) Cameron (Bonnano type) can lose the little bit of rubber compression pad which helps keep it locked. Safety ‘R’ pins can get bent or damaged preventing them being fully locked home. Check for excessive play in the through bolt that the hook swivels on when it is released.
(ii) Lindstrand ones with the pull down collar can develop cracks in the locking hook.
(iii) Check the rings on the three-ring types for distortion and that the locking wire is all neat and tidy with no frays.
(iv) Check the bolt on the jaws, the jaws themselves and the retaining hook and clip on the old Thunder & Colt type.
(v) On the bigger ride baskets a fixed release and running rope is often used. In such cases the Quick Release itself will probably be on the burner frame and held in place by what can generally described as a well-canky carabiner which has never been undone since it was originally fitted!
(vi) Have a cursory glance at the restraint rope for damage or ageing. You’ll probably find it in the bottom of the trailer half trapped under the fan.
Check the Pilot Restraint and, most importantly, what the other end is attached to! Does the thing actually work. Is it easy to adjust? Is the stitching and webbing all in good condition?
First Aid Kits are often carried by private balloonists and have to be carried by Ride Balloons. How old is it? Is it all intact or did the lid break some years ago and the contents now reside in the bottom of the bag mixed in with grubby Extra Strong Mints, one glove, an empty crushed Coke tin, loose matches and a spare igniter that doesn’t work?
Cylinder Straps need thoroughly checking for integrity. Leather ones tend to fail around the rivets by the buckle. Serious cracking is a no-no. Grab both ends and lean backwards, if the lights go out it has failed. There should be a spring in the pressed steel type fasteners, in fact there should be jaws in the pressed steel type fasteners! Are there actually enough straps for the cylinders? Are the straps suitable for the cylinders? Do the cylinders carried require a spreader board? Is the board fit for service?
Check the rope handles for integrity and their attachment. Check that the canes they are woven around are intact. If there is longer loop than normal or rope floating about it has probably been pulled rather heartily or used to tow the basket and has pulled through breaking a cane or two in the process.
Check the basket wires (if visible) for damage and that any locking clamps are tight and in place. Are the basket wires of equal length each side?
Check for broken or protruding cane or sharp objects (cut off cable-ties) that could cause injury on landing.
The floor should be free from damage (within the manufacturers’ limitations). Note any apparent damage. Where the cane is behind the rawhide, both in wicker and solid-floored baskets, check for the integrity of the cane. Unless looked after cane can dry out and become extremely brittle or rot, especially in these areas where they may get quite wet then dry out. This is the most usual area to find rotted or brittle cane. Depending on the severity, a good soaking with something like Danish Oil can sometimes restore it.
Especially wicker-floored baskets
In the case of wicker-floored baskets, brown canes attract woodworm like no tomorrow. Inspect very carefully for evidence of woodworm especially in the large double canes at each end of the basket where the ends of the woven floor is pushed through. These are virtually impossible to replace. Where baskets have brown cane then advise the owner to treat them with Woodworm Killer annually even if there is no evidence of woodworm. If you find holes push reasonably firmly with a blunt instrument around the area to ascertain how strong or localised the infestation has been. The odd hole here or there is acceptable but if the cane is soft from the attention of the little devils then it will need replacing. Any doubt then it must be failed.
Most, if not all, wicker-floored baskets have internal runners. These should be sound and tight. Any muck around them must be cleaned off as this can lead to rotting. Check that the bolts are sound and that the thread does not protrude about the countersunk holes.
Larger frame type partitioned baskets
Have a good look up at the top frame. You may well need to gently ease the trim back a bit to see the welds. This is where a torch comes in handy. If there is distortion to the frame, cracks are visible or the weld appears broken then you may have to remove the trim to get a better look. On ride balloons it is not uncommon to find cracks in the pole sockets where they join the top frame or vertical splits running down from the top. In extreme cases you may be able to move the sockets if you swing on them. This is not good!
Check the bottom frame in the same way. Some manufacturers use steel uprights connecting the top and bottom frame. Check the bottom frame where the upright is welded on. Compression fractures can occur in these areas, likewise partitions can have steel uprights. If these are excessively bowed then cracks may be present in the top and bottom weld. On some Cameron passenger compartment partitions the steel uprights are bolted via a bracket to the top and bottom frames. The nuts and bolts should be present and tight.
Some Lindstrand lightweight passenger compartment partitions have adjustable strainers at the base. These should be tight and reasonably straight.
Some larger solid floor baskets have internal diagonal bracing wires running across the basket that are anchored to the top frame and the floor. They should be reasonably tight and the mountings free from damage.
Where winching plates or cables are fitted they should comply with the appropriate modification. Check to make sure they are firmly bolted in place. There should be no movement in the plates. Check for damage around the bolts.
Most baskets develop a bit of a lean and passenger compartment partitions often develop a bow. These shouldn’t be extreme. Extreme distortion often means that a weld may be cracked or the tube distorted. A closer inspection will be required. If in doubt contact the manufacturer. If you can’t stand comfortably in the compartment its poorly!
Damage to the top trim always merits a much closer look as it may be evidence of underlying damage. If in doubt remove the trim and padding.
Freudian slip. With a solid floor basket the vertical canes are wrapped around the bottom frame. The floor is then strung to the frame. Damage to the wraps must not exceed the manufacturers limitations. If long runs of them are missing it means that only the hide is preventing the side coming out. Sky baskets used screws to hold the floor to the bottom frame rather than string but still had wraps around the bottom frame (more about that later).
Variations on a Theme
Some early solid floor baskets and the smaller Ultramagic baskets have the upright canes pass through the floor rather than around a lower frame. Make sure they are intact and meet the manufacturers criteria.
Check the wires throughout their length for any damage, evidence of kinking or fraying, especially where the cables come out above the basket top. Travelling the basket with the cables hanging free with carabiners and rings attached is the main cause of fraying at this point. Check the swaged end joint for integrity. The ferrules and thimbles should be in reasonably good condition without serious crushing or damage that would permit direct contact between the cable and the carabiner or make it difficult to attach the carabiner through the burner frame lugs.
If you are inspecting following a power line strike then you must pay very thorough attention to the entire length of the wire which may involve removing the hide covering (solid floor) under the basket. Entry and exit points where arcing has occurred can be very difficult to spot.
Top Trim and internal padding
The top trim is primarily there to prevent injury during arrivals back on earth. It should all be sound and actually attached to the basket. Sharp protrusions likely to cause injury should not be felt through it. Likewise on the larger baskets any side padding should be intact and fixed to the basket. If cable ties are used make sure there are no cut or sharp ends that could cause injury.
Where passenger ‘seats’ are provided they should be securely fixed in place (usually along the top rear edge and at the bottom at each end).
Clamber out and walk round time
Remembering the farce getting in? This time either make sure no-one is watching or get the owner to lean on the opposite side and scramble out.
Check around the top trim on the outside and have a look at the other side of the basket wires where they come out of the basket top.
Check the sides thoroughly for damage to the wicker and the uprights. A broken upright can actually be quite difficult to spot on some occasions. The most common place for damage to uprights is where the lower rope handles run and mishandling breaks the upright.
Don’t be afraid to ask for banners to be removed if you are not sure what lays behind them or you spotted something from the inside that requires a bit of a closer look especially if the area on the inside is covered by a map bag or padding. You would be amazed!
Corners deserve close attention. On the smaller baskets these are the areas that get most stick and can often have quite badly worn or thinning wicker!
Check around the top of the hide. Make sure that it is securely fastened and that it is not pulling off. Look along the line where the hide is strung to the wicker especially on the corners of the larger wicker-floored baskets. If there is an unusually large gap it may be the woven floor is starting to sag or the floor canes are broken or cracked.
Cast your mind back to how the basket looked when you first tried to climb in. This time it will be controlled! Tip the basket over on its side.
Check all round the hide for damage and security. It should be fit for purpose. It is there to both protect the edge and also prevent the field coming into the basket so it must be sound and securely lashed on (not lashed up!). In the case of woven-floored baskets it closes and fastens the end of the floor to the end of the basket so is seriously structural. Hide that has become waterlogged, usually having been left in a wet trailer, looks dreadful and will have lost a lot of its strength. Give it a good poke to make sure it is still sound and won’t easily tear off.
With solid floor baskets damage to the hide must not reveal the stringing between the floor and lower frame. If it is visible make sure the string is undamaged.
In the case of Sky baskets (later is here!) the floor is held in by screws, the heads of which are protected by the hide as are the wraps on the aforementioned early T&C and Ultramagic baskets. It is paramount to the integrity of these baskets that the hide is undamaged and none of the screws or wraps are visible.
Where the hide covers the basket wires there must be no damage to the hide that reveals them. Where serious damage has occurred to the hide remove it and check the wire underneath.
Runners must not be badly damaged, loose or decayed. Grot (usually cowpats) between the runner edge and floor should be cleaned away. Where runners are held on by bolts (mainly Cameron wicker-floored) check that the heads are not worn down to the thread! For some reason Camerons chose not to countersink them so dragging the basket about wears the heads away.
Cracks in solid floor baskets can usually be better seen from the underside. If you find one then scramble back inside and have a good gander to see how bad it is. These are mainly caused by dropping the loaded basket out the back of the trailer or dropping cylinders into it. Alternatively dropping like a grand piano while tethering can do an equally good job!
Check any fixings on the basket bottom, like the diagonal braces, bolts through passenger compartment partitions and towing plate, are all sound and no damage has occurred to the floor through mishandling or hasty landings.
Tip the basket over the other way and check the hide on the other side and the bits you couldn’t get to.
At last you can stand the basket up again. We always let the owner (if they are present) reload their basket. This can be tedious as they try and remember where their lucky Gonk goes or which tank goes where but at least you’ll be able to get on with working out how much a dead PP3, lens cover off a Nikon, crushed glasses frame and a broken propelling pencil is worth or make a start on the burner. Now who buys propelling pencils these days and if you do know, where can you get a new bit of lead?
In the case of Cameron Balloons and Ultramagic you will now need to rig the burner and check that the flexi-rigids are the correct length. Job done.
Last and least, the Little’uns
Hoppers and the Duo Airchairs although classed as ‘baskets’ they are mainly an integral burner/seat unit. Depending how they are actually attached to the cylinder (or vickiverki) then they are basically frames. The main points will be the function of the harness, welds and attachment points and any stitching where fabric seats are involved. The most common problem encountered are maillon rapides coming undone and crud in the harness mechanism, usually the remains of the last landing! Other than that there is little to check.
Likewise the folding baskets use little or no wicker. The framework is generally kept in tension by cabling. The major points are therefore the fabric wraps, the flexi-poles that separate the top and bottom frames and the cables.
The usual rules apply and if any additional inspection is required it will probably be in a supplement. There that didn’t take long.
Manufacturers’ basket requirements
All the manufacturers have specific requirements for baskets. All the points listed in the various inspection procedures are very similar. Lindstrand Balloons seem to have two sets of criteria for floor damage for some odd reason!
Cameron, T&C, Sky baskets
Reference Maintenance Manual Issue 10-3 6.6.5.
Basket wires: Damage must not exceed 5% of the wire cross-section (6 strands).
Basket weave: No damage to the wickerwork that will allow an object 50 mm (2 in) diameter to pass through.
Basket wall weave: In the basket wall no more than 2 adjacent upright stakes may be broken, provided that the next three uprights on either side of the damaged area are intact. There should be no large areas in which the weave is worn below 1⁄2 of its original thickness.
Woven basket floors: In the floor weave no major lateral stakes should be broken. No more than two adjacent longitudinal canes may be broken or worn below 2/3 of their original thickness. There must be a minimum of three undamaged longitudinal canes on either side of any two broken canes. Basket runners should be unbroken and free of major cracks. An acceptable crack will not cross more than 10 mm of runner width, and will not extend more than 150 mm along the runner.
Solid basket floors: Runner damage should be assessed as for a woven floor basket. Solid basket floors may not have any split which exceeds 75 mm (3 in) in length, and is visible on both sides of the floor.
Burner support rods: The support rods must not be cracked or broken. The support rods should be checked for length relative to basket wires. Rig the burner frame to the basket, and check that the basket wires do not allow the burner frame to lift more than 50 mm (2 in) on the support rods.
ADs & SBs
CAA AD28 G-2004-0028 - 24/11/04 - Cameron Balloons - Solid Floor Baskets Support cables – Mandatory Current
Cameron SB12-Solid Floor Basket Wires-10.2004-Closed
Woodworm in brown floor canes woven-floored baskets.
Loose damaged runners woven-floored baskets.
Runner bolt thread protruding above countersunk holes woven-floored baskets.
Fire extinguisher unserviceable.
General hide damage especially joins coming apart.
Sky basket hide worn away over floor securing bolts.
Cameron folding baskets damage to the fabric wrap caused by the way it packs flat.
Frayed wires (usually within limitations)
Maintenance manual 1.9
Ref 220.127.116.11, 6.1.4
If more than ten strands of a basket wire are broken, or if the wires are badly kinked, then a new section of wire must be spliced into the structure.
Check the condition of the plywood floor. Any cracks longer than 150 mm (6”) must not be transmitted through the floor. Check that there is no wood rotting, especially at the edges of the floor.
If a floor is damaged so that a 250 mm (10") crack is visible on both sides of the floor, ie the floor has cracked right through, then it either must be patched or replaced totally. (5.2.3)
Damage to the runners is not critical, provided they are not broken in two.
Holes in the wickerwork which are large enough for a hand or foot to pass through are dangerous and must be repaired. (5.2.4)
No Ads or SBs issued in connection with baskets.
Floor cracks at end of smaller baskets where the runners end. Dropping off trailer.
Lower handles pulling through or pulling tight down the sides.
Splits in pole sockets larger ride balloons.
Frayed wires (usually within limitations)
Maintenance manual 04 rev 12
Basket Inspection requirements 6.6.6
3.3 Basket Wires
No damage to the suspension cables is allowed.
3.5 Any area of damage larger than 60mm diameter must be repaired prior to flight. This repair must be carried out by Ultramagic or an approved Repair Station. No sharp edges should be left protruding.
3.6 Basket Runners
Reasonable wear and tear to runners is acceptable as they are designed to take abrasion and protect the floor. However they do add considerable strength to the basket and must therefore be replaced if cracked or badly damaged. If there is any doubt contact Ultramagic SA. Or one of its agents.
3.7 Basket Floors
Cracks in the floor visible on both faces less than 75mm (3 ") are acceptable as long as they are monitored on a flight-by-flight basis. Any cracks greater than this must be repaired by gluing and screwing a patch over the damage.
3.8 Basket Poles
Poles must be replaced if broken or cracked. Ultramagic SA or one of its agents must supply these.
SB 01/10 01/10-Inspection of lower frame of partitioned baskets-Mandatory-current
Damaged broken welds earlier partitioned baskets
Maintenance Manual Issue 1 Rev 1
I. 2. 3.
Check rattan for damage. Pay close attention to the area where the basket sides attach to the plywood floor. The vertical spokes must not be broken.
4.1 Basket: There should be no damage to suspension cables or end fittings. The rattan sides should be checked for damage. Careful attention should be paid to the area where the sides join the plywood floor. There should be no broken rattan in this area.
4. Both load plates in the center of the floor (top & bottom) must be secure and undamaged.
5. Check suspension cables for broken strands or kinks. The maximum allowable slack in cables with the uprights up is one inch of excess length.
No ADs or SBs issued
Maintenance manual Issue 2
Maximum permitted damage to wicker 20mm hole.
No damage permitted to the vertical floor strakes where they pass through the floor.
No damage permitted to basket wires.
No ADs & SBs issued in connection with Schroeder baskets
11th February 2012